If you’re considering getting a new puppy or already have one this information will be invaluable in understanding the growing process (and pains) you will both experience.  The series to follow is a quick insight to the Developmental Stages of a Puppy.

0-2 Weeks = Neonatal Stage; when a puppy is most influenced by their Mother, their touch and taste are present at birth

Next post 2-4 Week Stage

There’s always been concern about overbathing and drying out or irritating a dogs skin.  Good news, most Groomers will agree there’s no harm in bathing a dog once a week, so long as a good, professional shampoo is used and rinsed extremely well. 

In fact, many show dogs are bathed as much as 2 to 3 times a day.  So next time Fido or Fifi decides to do a dirt roll or starts to get a little stinky, don’t hesitate to bring’em on in.  There’s nothing better than a fresh, clean puppy dog!

Think about how often you cut, file manicure your nails for a moment.   Most of us at least tend to our nail on a monthly basis, if not weekly, so why do we let our pets go for months without nail care?  Lack of concern is usually not the reason, but lack of understanding the differences between our nail growth and theirs tends to be for most.  Simply put, our nail bed/quick has a stopping point so we can go without a nail trim somewhat indefinitely; a dogs nail bed/quick continues to grow with the length of the nail. 

So, imagine for a moment the pain we feel when we have a nail that is accidently broken or torn down into the quick, now imagine the pain (not to mention bleeding) your pet endures when overgrown nails are trimmed back after months of growth without care.  Groomers have only two choices when trimming overgrown nails, 1. cut just the very tips to avoid quicking the nail, therefore leaving a long nail and possible health problem unattended to, or, 2. inadvertently quicking the nail while trying to trim a nail back to a shorter, healthy length.

The Verdict… a dogs nails need to be cared for on a monthly basis, especially if they tend to not be outdoors on a hard concrete surface often, and all dogs should have a nail trim at least every six weeks.  And, if you’re fearfull of caring for your pets nails use a nail file if you have a little dog, or for the bigger pups learn to use a Dremel with Peticure attachment (my personal favorite).  A Dremel gives you more control to file a little then check to see where you’re at, verses a nail clipper where its one shot and you hope for the best.  When using a Dremel just be sure not to overheat a nail, if the nail starts to get warm move on to the next nail while the other cools and then come back to it.  My dog actually lays down on his side and takes a little cat-nap while getting his nails Dremeled.  He likes it, though it does tickle at times. 

Finally, an easy way to keep up with your pets nail care is the next time you manicure your nails – give your pet a manicure too.  Your pet will be forever grateful not to experience the trauma of a quicked nail, and so will your Pet Groomer!

Canine Toenail Composition

The canine nail is comprised of 3 main parts. They are of the quick or the vein and nerve endings that supply both blood circulation and sensitivity to pressure and hot/cold senses of the toe and the foot.

Surrounding this very soft, fluid filled center is a pulp, inner nail bed, or layers of soft and moist tissue that helps to protect and cushion the sensitive vein and nerves much as our fatty tissue and subcutaneous makeup does for our own bodies. This area is slightly harder than the layers beneath it, yet still cannot be counted as the nail itself because it cannot protect the quick of the nail when exposed. This area is also what is visible in a light colored nail as the darker circle or half moon shape when we trim back the nail and get closer to the quick. On dark nails it can be nearly impossible to see, but it does make a different sound in the nail trimmers when clipped into. This area feels pressure and will often cause the dog to begin to pull back as it feels this pressure and anticipates possible pain.

Around these inner layers is a harder more durable wrap of many layers of protein and keratin- or fibrous structural proteins that are tough and insoluble. These layers make up the nail and round out its full length.

Toe Nail Photo

 

We see them every day, in sets of four usually, but sometimes 5 or even 6. Multiply that by 4 legs and it adds up to a lot of nails that we see, clip and address with clients each and every day.  But do we really understand all that we should about these incredible little appendages?

We should first realize the larger picture. Dogs walk on their toes like a horse, not on their pads or the “soles” of their feet like a human. So this puts weight dispersion and balance of the dog’s entire mass on a very small center of impact absorption (especially if they are also overweight). Meaning that if they feel pain in a toe or a nail, they will then have to rock back on their heels and extend the ligaments of their larger pad and the back of their ankles to try to ease the pain in their toes. This puts them at a tremendous risk of injuring their ankles, elbows, hocks, shoulder and hips, as well as their connective tissues such as ACLs. Everything in one’s musculoskeletal system is connected with every other part of the body. So, simple overgrown nails can be the root of not only much discomfort, but much financial expense in the long run.

Overgrown nails on a dog is one of the leading causes of obesity. If we really think about it, it is likely the leading cause.

Overgrown nails lead to discomfort of the bones and tendons and ligaments of the toes, then up to the larger bones and tissues of the foot, up the arms and legs and into the larger bones of the shoulders, hips and then on to the spine. Everything touches something else. And when one thing is out of line at the root of one’s center of mobility, it puts everything else in the body out of sync, and therefore in some level of discomfort. After time, this leads to genuine physical deterioration and then to eventual disability. So, looking at the total structure of the dog, and in thinking about how we feel when our feet hurt or are injured, it is easy to see that the comfort and care of the feet and toes are at the forefront of one’s most important necessities–both human and canine or feline.

More on “All About Nails” to come…

What other details should you remember when including your dog in your wedding…

Your pet must rely on you to provide food and water, so make sure to have them and dishes available.   You should also have someone in charge of walking and cleaning up after them.  Even if dogs are welcome at your reception site, they may not be comfortable with all the noise and activity, so you probably would want to arrange for someone to take the dog to your home or another agreed upon location beforehand.  If bringing them to the reception, have your designated dog handler be ready to take the dog(s) home early if the excitement gets to be too much for them.  Or, if your dog is comfortable with/used to being kenneled, have a collapsible kennel ready in an out of the way, quiet place for them to get away from the hustle and bustle and just relax.

Dogs and Weddings, Part 2, from your Pet Groomer

Posted May 14th, 2010 by groomer

What roles can your dog play on your wedding day…

With any session, specifically your engagement session, you may want to walk and run with them, hold them in your arms, and just have fun playing with them.  For your wedding day, small dogs can be pulled by a child in a wagon, and dogs of any size can walk someone down the aisle.

Dogs and Weddings, Part 1, from your Pet Groomer

Posted May 9th, 2010 by groomer

What should be considered before including a dog in your wedding photography…

Your dog should only be included if your wedding photography locations specifically allow dogs.  Additionally, consider their temperament, it is best if they are generally calm around many people.  If including them in the wedding, you may want to note this in the invitation and on your wedding website, as some people may be afraid of, or allergic to them.  And, don’t forget a trip to the Groomer the day before the wedding to ensure they’re sitting pretty for the pictures.

Tipping is discretionary.  This is a guide for people who are planning to tip and want to know the customary amount.

  • Pet groomers – Most pet groomers are paid based upon a commission, not a regular salary or hourly wage.  Typically your tip is 15% of the bill or $2 per dog, whichever is greater.  If your dog is difficult, then tip more.  Obviously, don’t tip if the quality is poor.
  • Pet sitters – Tipping is not required, but most pet sitters will appreciate a tip.   15% is appropriate if you want to tip.

Tipping the Owner

Do you tip the owner of a company when he or she provides your service?  The answer is yes.

Christmas Holiday Tipping Etiquette

Christmas is a great time of year to remember those people who serve you regularly.  Since it only occurs once a year, holiday tipping can be a gift or a tasteful Christmas card with a tip inside.  Delivery should occur in the month of December prior to Christmas day.  Tip those who serve you all year long and with whom you have a personal relationship.

  • Pet groomer – 1/4 to 1/2 cost of a session.
  • Pet walker or sitter – 1 to 2 week’s pay.

Pet Friendly Gardening Tip #3 from your Pet Groomer

Posted April 29th, 2010 by groomer

Who let the dogs out… make sure your dog is safe in your yard by having a fence.  The only thing worse than your pet doing their own gardening is your pet redecorating someone else’s.  Not only is it embarrassing to explain to your neighbor why his or her tomatoes are missing, but you do not know what kind of toxic plants they may have or what kinds of chemicals or pesticides they may use.  If you follow these simple steps, your pet and your plants can have a happy, harmonious and, most importantly, safe co-existence.